9.28.2006

update on han il kwan

(posted on chowhound - http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/325773)

update on a recent visit to han il kwan last weekend...

4 of us arrived on a sun evening around 8pm to a pretty open restaurant, only 2 or 3 tables but a large party in the private room. we opted to bbq at the table (i like to come out smelling like meat;) ) and ordered a plate of galbi and daeji bulgogi, the cod fish jigae, and chop jae. i think i counted 12 or more dishes of panchan, the fishcake and marinated cucumbers being the favorites of the night.

the galbi was good, the rib bone even better, and while the marinated pork was fine, it lacked some assertiveness in spices compared to K-town examples. then, the waitress brought out, on the house, a small, piping hot clay pot of egg custard! she said it'd be very good over our rice and indeed it was. nicely seasoned and so fluffy. who knew you could cook eggs like that?

then our cod jigae arrived, bubbling over its dark clay rim. the broth was pretty tasty but missing a few notches of hot spiciness. all the vegetables and tofu were fine, but the cod unfortunately was tough and overcooked. most likely frozen vs fresh. i'd say go for another jigae version on the menu.

our chap jae still hadn't arrived and by the time we got through the jigae, we were so stuffed we told the waitress to cancel it if they'd forgotten. they had, but we shrugged it off since we were so stuffed from the meat, jigae and abundant, bottomless slection of panchan.

we finished off with a small serving of sweet rice water with toasted pine nuts, which i find a refreshing way to rinse out that heavy, greasy meat taste with something a little sweet.

all in all the bill came out to $$64 w/tax and tip - only $16 pp! my friends had a great time and while this isn't as great as some places in k-town, i'll be happy to return. service is very pleasant and generous (minus the fact they forgot a dish but they apologized profusely). now if only they could do something about that richmond district parking...

9.19.2006

soy-ginger porkchops with stir fried long beans

have i ever mentioned i love pork chops? i love pork chops. there's just something about them. my obsession probably stems from growing up onthe greasy, delicious, pan-browned oyster sauce chops my mom made at least once a week. so tasty and perfect with a couple large bowls of sauce soaking rice. ask anyone who knows my cooking well, what i cooked for dinner last nite, and he'll answer, porkchops!

pork gets a bad rap quite a bit (tawny recently likened it to human flesh, whatever), but today's "other white meat" is actually much leaner and cleaner than yesteryear's. farmers breed pigs to be less fatty, a result of the american consumer becoming more "health conscious" the last couple decades. the downfall is that is this meat tends to be drier and less flavorful when cooked. but like the original white meat, chicken, pork can take on whatever flavor you throw at it and is forgiving as such.

a few cardinal rules apply when cooking with pork chops (at least from my experience):

1. select cuts with as much marbling as possible. hard to find in your average supermarket, but the more marbling, or fat running through the meat, the juicier and flavorful your chop will be. the less fat there is, the easier the meat will become tougher with overcooking.

2. the thicker the better. thin cut chops will cook much quicker but thick cut (1 1/2" and up) will retain juices and when cut with a knife, mimic the performance of a tender steak. thick chops are a must when grilling, otherwise the meat will be overdone by the time the surface has caramelized properly.

3. vary cooking time according to thickness of cut and heat method. thin cuts are best for pan frying or braising where you'll only have the meat on heat for a short period of time. thick cuts are more suited to grilling and broiling and can be held on the heat longer.

4. don't overcook pork. trichinosis, the nasty germ everyone is afraid of with uncooked pork, is killed at 137*F. the book, kitchen science, recommends cooking pork to an internal temp of 150*F which is a happy medium between safe and texture. with thick cuts i use the finger press method (like steaks) to test for doneness. the meat should give easily when pressed but have medium springiness. a light pink color is good. white means overcooked. it takes practice and please refer to #3 above.

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for this meal, i used a thin cut chop and marinated it for 15 min to give the meat extra flavor and moisture. i then pan-fried it. the marinade process helps keep thinner cuts from drying out and the pan fry method sears the surface and cooks the inside quickly (when thin).

add 6 thin cut rib chops to the following for 15 min or more:
3T soy sauce
1 T sugar
1 clove chopped garlic
1 inch piece of ginger grated into a slush (use a micro planer)
juice of 1 lime
pepper

in a large saute pan, heat evoo and add the chops in 1 layer. be cautious of oil splattering. let caramelize for 2 minutes then flip for another 2-3 min until done. set aside and keep warm. if you want to create a pan sauce from the drippings, you can add water or white wine to the pan, adjust seasonings with s/p, and let it thicken for a few minutes before drizzling over the chops.

for the long beans, heat oil in a wok and add 2 smashed cloves garlic, 1 red thai chile and 1 bunch chopped long beans and a sliced onion. add 2-3 T fish sauce and 1 t sugar and stirfry for 4 to 5 min. squeeze half a lime over the beans and plate.

9.12.2006

pics from past dinners

had some pics of dishes i made from past dinners...

pan-fried porkchops with oyster sauce glaze
and cilantro salsa over soba noodles
07.18.06
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thai green curry with chicken and kabocha
08.21.06
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carnitas
07.02.06
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my famous guacamole
07.02.06
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pork back ribs w/mango bbq glaze
07.02.06
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9.06.2006

grilled red snapper with key lime mango salsa, wasabi smashed potatoes, and sauteed greens

ooOOOoooOoo weeee!!

this dish was fun to make. it's a combination of different inspirations i've seen in my cookbooks as of late. i knew i wanted something slighty asian/exotic influenced and i wanted to develop my fish skills, so here's what i came up with:

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purty ain't she?? if i do say so myself thank you very much. the combination of flavors are on the right track, but need a little tweaking in order to make it all work. for example, the mango salsa was a little too tart for the delicate snapper, and the potatoes need a little more wasabi kick. i skipped marinating the fish too, which would've made this much better. this was all made in about 40 min too.

combine the following in a non-metal bowl:
1 ripe mango, skinned and stoned, cubed
1/2 red onion finely diced
1/4 bunch chopped cilantro
3 thai chiles, seeded and minced
1-2 key lime juice, depending on tartness
2 T olive oil
s/p

mix thoroughly and place in the fridge to let the flavors meld. meanwhile boil a large pot of salted water and add quartered red potatoes, about 2 large red potatoes per person. boil 10 min until easily smashed with a wooden spoon.

while the potatoes are cooking, marinate the snapper. fresh fillets are best, but it's not as convenient to fillet your own whole fish. TJ's has frozen fillets that are easy to use, but make sure you let them thaw overnight in the fridge. do not thaw in the microwave. alternatively, any firm white fish will substitute nicely here, like mahi mahi.

combine the following in a non-metal bowl and marinade for 15 min:
snapper fillets (8oz per person)
1 cup white wine
juice of 2 key limes
1 clove garlic smashed
1/2 white onion sliced
salt

if you don't have time for this part, just season the fillets with s/p, key lime juice, and evoo. while the above marinates, heat evoo in a large skillet or wok, add 1 clove chopped garlic and 1 thai chile chopped. in batches, add 1 bag of prewashed, precut mixed greens (available by the greens section of the market) until all have wilted. grate some fresh nutmeg and season with s/p.

drain the potatoes and mash with milk (add a bit at a time until you get the consistency of lumpy mashed potatoes), then stir in 2 T wasabi sake dijon mustard (available at TJ's, or add wasabi paste), 2 T evoo, and s/p to taste.

heat a grill pan, drain the marinade off the fillets, and grill each side for 2-3 minutes depending on thickness. do not overcook and remember it will continue to cook once off the heat. keep warm while assembling the dish.

when plating, place a heap of potatoes on the plate, add a cascade of greens on one side, then the fish on the other. top with the salsa and spoon of the accumulated mango liquid onto the fish.

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9.04.2006

a revisit to kirin on geary

::originally posted on chowhound.com this evening::

in searching for a good chinese restaurant in the city to take my mom to this evening, i ran across my old post earlier this year:

http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/45291?user_name=&query=mayflower%2C+kirin (thanks for the replies!)

i totally forgot to respond to that original post and report back how wonderful kirin was! my group of 18 went there for my bday dinner back in april and had the $220 banquet dinner. we actually made a couple of substitutions and add ons too. the food was all very solid and well timed. i remember specifically the sticky rice chicken being so tasty, nevermind the grease. we had so much leftover though, boxes and boxes. the service was great and the manager (sam/henry?) was extremely nice and attentive thoughout the entire process (menu negotiation to uncorking our wine). i've been going ever since and he recognizes me when i come in too (score!)


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back to this evening, i decided to play it safe and take my mom to kirin. she lives in LA and is accustomed to all the san gabriel valley powerhouses so she has a well-educated palate. i brought her last to koi palace, which she thought very highly of, but we were looking for something that was under $100 for the two of us tonight.

when we arrive, the manager recognized me again and showed us to a nice large table by the window. we ordered lobster in ginger & green onion, a steamed whole rock cod, and garlic sauteed pea sprouts.

we got a large bowl of complimentary soup to start. clear stewed pork broth with bean curd sheets, red dates (i think?), and water chestnuts. my mom is really big on soup and remarked that this one was very savory sweet, well seasoned, not too salty. we both finished a couple of servings.

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the pea sprouts arrive (a nice large portion) that was crisp-tender and not stringy at all (old sprounts tend to have too much fiberous material). it had a nice subtle touch of garlic and broth, but i would've perferred just a touch more salt/soy.

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the lobster was about 1 1/2 pounds and came out steaming hot. the meat was quickly cooked to a plump and tender texture, buttery sweet. sauce was well gingered and flavored. my only complaint with lobster dishes at chinese restaurants is that the pieces get cold rather quickly (like the claw meat which i save for last.)

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the rock cod was perfect portioned for 2. this was overall good, but slightly overdone by a minute or two, resulting in firmer flesh vs velvety. the hot oil flash soy sauce was also a little unbalanced, not having enough sweet vs salt character.

we wrapped things up with some almond jello (please skip the canned tropical fruit served on top) and fortunte cookies (which i find hilarious at a restaurant like this).

service was great and the different waiters were all so polite and accommodating. very refreshing for these kind of restaurants. our bill came out to $87 with tax/tip and for us, was well worth it. yes, koi palace is extremely good; we thought of going there. but kirin represents a great neighborhood chinese restaurant with solid food and exceptional service. i'll definitely continue to be loyal and i think my mom now knows of at least 2 great chinese places to eat in SF.

9.03.2006

cocoro with the mom

had yet another wonderful, fulfilling meal at cocoro. this is the japanese-sushi restaurant i've been raving about for the past few months. so after a full day of sightseeing around SF, my mom and i arrive at cocoro (on geary and 22nd) to a half empty restaurant. the staff is always so cheery when you arrive and greet you with the traditional japanese hello (is it hello?). we get seated at a table (my mom decided not to the bar) and quickly get down to ordering.

my mom is a sushi novice. years ago, she refused to eat any raw fish of any sort. when our family went to the japanese buffets for sunday lunches in the san gabriel valley, she would devour rounds and rounds of steamed mussels, stir-fried crab, and crispy tempura. when it came to the sushi bar, she'd pick up a plate up tuna and salmon nigiri and bring it back to the table with a bowl of hot miso soup, proceeding to rip the fish off the rice and plunk it into the steaming soup bowl until it nuked itself to medium well. haha...

she's afraid of raw fish being "tai seang" or "too fishy." i myself never understood what the idiom meant until some putrid salmon a few years ago. bleh. anyway, apparently in the last year or so, my mom has been happily eating raw fish, but only the salmon and tuna varieties. i was in shock when she last mentioned we could get sushi for dinner. so, i determined to introduce her to quality sushi and variety.

cocoro is neither top-notch nor trendy, but a solid richmond neighborhood sushi bar that serves excellent food (quality and quantity) for the money. it's no nagano, but definitely stronger than kitaro, which it sits next door to. fish slices are unusually long (twice as long as the rice ball, which is probably against tradition) and presentation is paid attention to. service is very attentive (we never had an empty tea mug) and very friendly.

upon seating, our waitress brought dishes, a small bowl of soybeans, and hot towels. she then reappeared with green tea, salad, miso soup, AND a small dish of bright green marinated seaweed and crunchy translucent bean threads. the seasoning was good, although a little mushy/wet in texture. then again, seaweed is usually as such. anyway, all was unexpected and just one of the ways cocoro makes you a loyal customer.

with the order, i decided to keep it tame and slowly build her up in flavor and texture. we started with the maguro (your basic tuna) and this was fresh and clean in flavor, with little aftertaste. next was a sweet and moist sake (salmon) which she loved. the third was my favorite, hamachi (yellowtail) which actually put her at her limit. "seang," she said and gave me the uneaten portion. she was a little put off at this point but i encouraged her to try the next one. "you can't give up now!" for the 4th and final raw selection, i picked up a large slice of toro (fatty tuna) and let its buttery creaminess melt on my mouth, its strong assertive flavor relish on my tongue. across the table my mom's mouth quickly puckered and a fluttering of napkin accepted a nibble of toro. "omg, tai seang!!" ah well. another piece for me.

the waitress saw this and asked if anything was wrong. i explained i was introducing her to sushi. "ah, beginner... you should stick with less fatty fish, like maguro, sake, and albacore. the toro is much too fatty for her at this time." interesting. i made a mental note.

our other selections included a hamachi bomb and a soft shell crab appetizer. the bomb my mom loved. It's a large 3 piece roll containing a slice of thick hamachi and mayo, then panko fried with some masago sprinkled on top. the fish is fully cooked and very fragrant and oily (in a good fish oil way). this wasn't as good as my previous visit which had a much larger chunk of fish wrapped inside, but definitely good. the soft shell crab was pretty meaty, with a similar panko crust and sweet/tangy dipping sauce. unfortunately by the time we got to the crab, it had lost its warmth. we noted we should order this during our meal to make sure timing is correct.


during this portion, our sushi chef surprised us with a free dish, fried hamachi wrapped with jalapeno! he mentioned it was spicy so be careful. one bite definitely reveals the "bite" but it wasn't too hot. this was again panko crusted and consisted of a jalapeno sliced lengthwise and stuffed with chopped hamachi. seasoning was good, but this would've been a standout if he'd used an actual slice of hamachi. but i guess it's a good way of using up leftover fish that can't be served as nigiri.

the finishing note, and the thing that impressed me most, was dessert on the house. our waitress brought over 2 small square shotglasses that were filled with mango sorbet! the shotglasses had frost on the outside and a mini spoon sticking out of the sorbet. very mango-y and what a great way to pick up the palate again after fatty fish and a few fried, crunchy items. i was most impressed by the presentation. simple, yet ingenious. a perfect portion too after a full meal. just enough sweetness. i could go on and on.

as my mom and i were sipping our endless green tea, she notes that toasted rice has been added to the brew. i argue no, it's more the green tea. after some back and forth, we ask the waitress who ends up siding with my mom (!), noting that brown rice is used in the brew, as well as some herbal flower. apparently most japanese restaurants in LA use a basic green tea while SF establishments prefer the rice enhanced layer. will have to check this out.

the meal came out to $52 with tax/tip. considering all the extra goodies and the great service (both the sushi chef and owner came by to see how we were doing), i believe this is pretty good bang for your buck (4 nigiri, 1 large roll, 1 crab). my big thing is why they aren't more popular. perhaps it's because they're relatively new to the neighborhood? sadly, kitaro and sakuna blue (the mediocre quality sushi boat restaurant) on the same block are packed to the gills. but that's ok... i like my cocoro the way it is.